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With all the many hours of comparing, test prints/strips and different techniques I've used to sharpen (including pluggins) for large Prints, I still prefer turning in-camera sharpening OFF and sharpen using the Dark and Light Blend layers for 10D files. However, I also have a 1DMkII that requires a different sharpening approach, A simple Luminosity Blend layer sharpening works well for the MkII Raw or JPG. Every different camera I have used requires its own tailored settings to bring out the best...
I have tried many versions of High Pass and Edge Sharpening, but they are more for just a one image at a time process and don't work well for bulk image processing. Sometimes you must sharpen the whole image to bring out all the very fine detail that High Pass will miss.
L*a*b* mode conversion: this is an interesting one that I used almost exclusively on Fuji S602Z images, however it does no justice to my virtually noiseless Canon files. The idea with lab is to sharpen the lightness (L) channel and slightly Blur the a* and b* color channels so you don't sharpen the color noise, but you are still sharpening the gray noise in the L channel. It was also noted that there may also be slight color loss or shifts during conversion to Lab and back to RGB.
My suggestion is my friends to take an afternoon and bring up your favorite image, try a few well know processes and compare for yourself on-screen and in print. You will surprized to see the difference between the printed version and what you see on your monitor...
Have a GREAT Day all....
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