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Keep checking back on my modelling threads and hopefuly you can find a few tricks that will help you. Tweezers is a definate must for some of the smaller parts like tow hooks and wheel nuts. And a good pair of reading glasses is essential as well. I use -2.0 diopters but you might require something different. Like with any job, the tools are critical to a good result.
John Simons (of Marsh models) has several excellent books out on 1/43 and building tricks. One is called "The world of 1/43" and the second one is, I believe pt.II.
If you have an interest in building, the best way to learn is to get some old Solido models. They come mostly finished except for decalling. Once you get that down, you can move on to painting. With the all metal body, you can just chunk it into the old lacquer thinner if you have any big problems and start over. They are dirt cheap and if you mess it up, you can just have a good laugh and throw what is left in the sparts parts bin. Plus, some of them come out nearly as good as handbuilts. Check my 908/80 thread to see what can be done with a Solido, smoke and mirrors.
Once you have dinked around with a bunch of those, you can try your hand at some rein kits. The best way to start those is to pick kits with as little tricky parts as possible. I always like the Porsche 908/3 series because there is no glass and hardly any photo-etched parts. They are really straight forward and quite a snap to build. Then you can move on to tougher projects. I also like the 956/62 series because the windows go in with one shot, all one piece. And the headlights are resin, so there is no tricky vac-forms to screw up.
Also, some of the new BBR kits are just a blast to build, especially the open top cars with no glass. You still have to do the headlight cover vac-forms, but they are done beautifully and the lines are very clearly marked so it is easy to see where to cut them out. I did a 1999 Sebring Audi R-8 and it was such a breeze that I was depressed when it was done. Simple paint job, simple decals and good quality resin to work with. All the parts fit perfectly. In my estimation, the BBR and Marsh kits are the standard, but the Province Moulage kits are getting better all the time and they are more than good enough. The others are just a notch higher quality.
But mostly, you need to find someone who is a good builder and lean on him for advice. It is too costly to learn all the tricks by making mistakes, but even then, I hammer one out of frustration every so often. It is a big myth that there is a lot of skill involved in this. Yes, you do need some, but it is more the refinement of technique that is required, and repitition takes care of that. Technique and patience is what you really need. The patience is the hard part, but this hobby will really teach it to you.
If you still don't want to build, Spark models is making excellent models of all the current LMP cars. They are so nice that I don't bother to build anything current because they are as good, and sometines better, that anything I can build. And the Starter factory built kits can be had for around $75 US and they are getting better all the time too. I have a Starter MK.IV Ford that i am really pleased with and it was only about $35 more than the kit would have been.
As a last resort, I have been known to think out my collection every so often, and, yes, i can be insulted with money, but trading me some kits is definately more effective.
Good luck in whatever you chose to do with you modelling. I keep all of mine in my gym, and they are nice to look at when I am wheezing between sets!
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