Using the Images Stabelizer while panning?

[vandijk]

Can someone give me any hints on Canon's IS technology. I saw there are lenses with a 2nd generation of IS. This system should cope better with panning.

Could someone give me an idea what will happen when you use the older, first generation, IS lenses while tracking a fast moving subject (a car of course, duh). Will it be an advantage or not?

[gi_gav]

The mode 2 IS is designed for panning, as it only uses the stabiliser to correct for vertical movements.

(The results are utterly incredible - i've not yet tested mine out thouroughly but i've already panned motorway traffic very sharply at 1/25th at 200mm...)

I haven't yet tried panning with an older one (i'm guessing you mean the 75-300 USM IS) but i don't think it would give much of an advantage.

The motor does take a moment to wind itself up, and i think that panning may just confuse it and not give you any real advantage.

It's worth trying out anyway.

[KennyG]

There are very few lenses that have mode 2 IS and they are the 'L' series. If you have a lens that does not have a mode 2 option, you should turn off IS for panning. It can (and usually does) introduce blur.

Start off at 1/250 then 1/180 and see how the results are. You need to keep a fairly big DOF when panning, so, depending on the camera you are using, shoot in Tv mode with ISO 400 which will help keep a smaller aperture (ie: larger DOF).

[chris78cpr]

The lenses with the 2 mode IS really help!!! I have the 100-400 and shoot in mode 2 when panning all the time! It really helps smooth out the shot!!!

Chris

[PaulSands]

ahhhhh that might explain a lot...I've been using made 1 to pan...better check my manual again

[vandijk]

Thanks for your responses all!

[Hugewally]

This is from the "Your best photo (one you took yourself!!)" thread, on page 19 near the top...

Originally posted by Hugewally
with the IS, when you use it, you need to get in the habit of pressing the shutter button half-way about 2 seconds before you want to take the picture. That'll let the stablized optics come up to speed so you won't see the jump when you're trying to take the picture. The image will still jump when the optics 'un-gage' themselves and that's when you know you're all ready to shoot the pic. The biggest problem I had was re-learning the process of pressing the shutter while I was bringing the camera up to my eye, instead of pressing the button when the camera was at my eye. Kinda along the same lines as turning the camera on after it's gone into the stand-by or sleep mode, it takes a couple of seconds before you can actually take the picture.

For myself, I normally don't use the IS on bright sunny days unless I'm at an extreme focal length and a slow shutter speed. Low light or slow shutter speeds I'll use it. This shot from Sebring was taken at 630pm (past sunset) using the EOS-1D with a 500mm f/4.0 @ 1/400-f/5.6 (ISO400) using IS and AF. http://www.racingfanatics.com/Sebrin...ebring6962.jpg

I was hand holding the 500mm and panning (yes it's very heavy). The cars were about 50ft from me running about 80mph. If I didn't have IS, I would've had to use a different lens but then wouldn't have gotten the closeup. Between taking these shots, I would rest the lens on the edge of the guardrail as it is very heavy to hand hold (did I mention the lens is heavy? LOL). When the a car would come into view, I would in one motion raise the camera up, press the shutter half way to turn on the IS, acquire the image in the view finder, pan the lens with the subject and then take the shot. Granted it all sounds simple and we all know how to take pics, but that extra little step of bringing the IS up to speed makes all the difference.

I also sometimes turn it on to help allow me to pre-focus on a subject. Really helps when you're at full focal length or low light and you just can't seem to get the focus right.

Something else I just thought about. IS also helps with focusing and taking shots on windy days. I'm sure everyone has had at one time been trying to focus on a subject and the wind/breeze keeps blowing you all around the subject. With IS, the wind movement is negated a bit. Or as a better example, say you see a pretty face across the track and you want to focus on it. IS makes that sooooo much easier....

If money isn't an issue, then I would recommend having a lens with IS as it is quite handy at the track. Yes we've all shot for years without it, but if it's available... Consider it as another useful tool you have in your back pocket if you need it.

So remember, the IS is working fine and is ready to use after the image 'jumps' in the viewfinder....

Hope that helps...

Martin

Just make sure you know what IS mode to use compared to what you're doing with the camera (panning or steady/fixed shot)...

[Groupc]

Hi Martin,

I found this very helpful, in fact it has answered a query I was planning to raise.

I've been taking photos of racing cars for 25 years, but I've just sold my beloved A1 and all the lenses, and gone digital with a 10D and the 300mm f4 and 1.4 convertor mentioned in another topic. One more question though...How does the autofocus perform with cars head or 3/4 on ? That's really been puzzling me. Do I prefocus as I did before or can it cope with movement? Apologies if this is a silly question.

I've been taking photos of racing cars for 25 years, but I've just sold my beloved A1 and all the lenses, and just gone digital with a 10D and the 300mm f4 and 1.4 convertor mentioned in another topic.

[gi_gav]

Not a silly question at all Groupc.

Reviews of the 10D claimed that autofocus response to moving subjects wasn't great.

However, last weekend was the first race i've shot with the 10D, and the AF speed was a pleasant surprise. Just make sure it's on 'AI Servo' and you'll be fine for most 3/4 and head-on shots.

Using a 2x TC slowed the AF to the point where it was missing head-ons, but i think your (mk2) 1.4x will be a lot better.

[PaulSands]

Originally posted by gi_gav
Just make sure it's on 'AI Servo' and you'll be fine for most 3/4 and head-on shots.

You see I had those settings and it just sucked on Saturday
This is the best I got http://www.paulsands.org/oulton15040.../Img_1217.html ...and believe me those that were bad were bad

[neil_davidson2]

The driver/roll-hoop area look pretty sharp (altho that might just be my display) so maybe it's more of a depth of field problem?

If you want to preserve the same shutter speed then it might be worth switching to a quicker iso setting and closing down the aperture a stop or two.

[PaulSands]

I hate using higher ISO ... I made the mistake of setting at 400 at Modello Park on the Sunday and the images are horribly grainy

[neil_davidson2]

Yep - I've had problems with 400&1000 as well. But generally going to 200 is all I've needed to do and the results havn't grained up noticeably.

It's probably worth taking a couple of non-motorsport test shots at 100&200 and seeing if the shots at 200 are passable.

Actually that opens up another question for those in the know: I understand why a film gets grainier (Bigger grains) but why does a dig camera produce grainy shots at the faster speeds? Is it simply to reproduce the film effect or is there a technical reason?

[gi_gav]

Hard to tell whether it's depth of field or motion... If it was shot at f4, and if the roll hoop is the point of focus, the front of the car would (i think) be out of focus.

Is the car turning much at that point?

Also, what shutter and aperture were you using?

[PaulSands]

File size 759443
Original date 5/15/04 4:24 PM
Resolution 3072 x 2048
Flash 0
Focal length 300.0mm
Exposure time 1/250s
Aperture 4.5
Focus Distance
Metering Mode Evaluative
Camera make Canon
Camera model Canon EOS 10D
Sensor type OneChipColorArea

[PaulSands]

The car is travelling at some speed accelerating over a crest after a right hand corner of about oooooh I dunno 60 degrees?
Half the problem maybe seeing the car at the last minute and me snatching the shots...maybe if I had been using a Zoom rather than a fixed focal length I couldve widened the angle and had a bit more warning? dunno..still learning I suppose

[Hugewally]

What I'd do...

Fix focus at the point where the nose is.
Bump up the shutter speed to 1/400 or more.
Use a monopod.
Don't take you eye out of the viewfinder.
And finally shoot more than one pic at a time, maybe two instead(?)...

Taking this pic is basically the same as what you were doing...
Blasting into view full throttle...

But also keep in mind that Photoshop unsharp mask is a wonderful thing to use on those shots that are close to being in focus...

If the car is jumping into view, then the camera probably doesn't have enough time for the AF to lock on. Remember the depth of field rule that 2/3's of the DOF should be in focus behind your focus point. So even if you shoot before the car gets to that point, your chances of being in focus are greater than if you wait until the car is at the point to press the shutter (by then the car is probably already past that focus point anyway).

With a lower shutter speed, remember that the car is still moving away from the focus point when the shutter is open. Also, the AF isn't working when the shutter is open either as it already picked the focus for the pic (the car continues to move, but the AF is still thinking the car is where it focused on).

Use a monpod (even with a little lens) in this situation and it'll help increase your personal response time (and your back will love you at the end of the day).

Shooting more than one frame greatly increases the chance that one of the pics will be spot on. Once you get your timing down on a particular shot, you'll know when it's time to drop down to one frame at a time.



Martin

[PaulSands]

You cant use a monopod with image stabiliser on though can you?
I think I may have to get a monopod as I never use them...cant say Ive takenb much notice but do they go on lens or body?

[Hugewally]

Originally posted by PaulSands
You cant use a monopod with image stabiliser on though can you?
I think I may have to get a monopod as I never use them...cant say Ive takenb much notice but do they go on lens or body?

Sure you can! You might not need to, while it can't hurt it can surely help. I've done it many a time...

Just if you get one, make sure it can support the weight of your biggest lens and camera. I use the Bogen/Manfrotto 681B Monopod & Bogen/Manfrotto 488RC2 Mini Ball Head. Lightweight and can hold up to 27lbs. that's enought for a 1200mm & camera.

Most of the larger lenses have an attaching collar that the momopod/tripod can screw into. The shorter lenses don't come with that, so you'd have to attach it directly to the bottom of the camera. BTW- quick release plates are the way to go!!!

And besides, using the monopod makes you look cool when you're walking around the track with it slung over your shoulder... definately a 'chick' magnet!!!

martin

[PaulSands]

Oh thats just what I'd need..I'm already in trouble for taking too many grid girl pics at Mondello

[Hugewally]

Originally posted by PaulSands
Oh thats just what I'd need..I'm already in trouble for taking too many grid girl pics at Mondello

You mean like anyone one from the following link?

Mmmm...


Martin

[gi_gav]

This thread started off talking about Image Stabilsing, and moved on to auto focusing.

Instead of starting a new thread, i'd like to post a photo in defence of both - Monza LMES was my first race with Canon 10D and 70-200 IS and i was enormously impressed with both.

The following shot was taken at the end of the pit straight, and the low perspective is due to it being taken whilst crouched down below the level of the wall, in a gap used for safety vehicle access.

Therefore, the IS has to deal with a very fast subject (about 180mph) and the AF has to track it at that speed, even though it can't be seen until it bursts into view.

Ok, it isn't perfectly sharp, but i don't think the equipment can be faulted at all.

[gi_gav]

This thread started off talking about Image Stabilsing, and moved on to auto focusing.

Instead of starting a new thread, i'd like to post a photo in defence of both - Monza LMES was my first race with Canon 10D and 70-200 IS and i was enormously impressed with both.

The following shot was taken at the end of the pit straight, and the low perspective is due to it being taken whilst crouched down below the level of the wall, in a gap used for safety vehicle access.

Therefore, the IS has to deal with a very fast subject (about 180mph) and the AF has to track it at that speed, even though it can't be seen until it bursts into view.

Ok, it isn't perfectly sharp, but i don't think the equipment can be faulted at all.

[gi_gav]

Sorry, double post - please delete.

[Hugewally]

What were the camera settings on that photo?

Martin