What engine oil do you use,and why?

Robyn Slater · 18 Oct 2006, 20:35 (Ref:1741541)

I,d value your thoughts & preferences on engine oils,Mainly with regards 1960/70s engines.(Does anybody use castrol R?)
Thanks, Robyn

COLIN STUBBS · 18 Oct 2006, 22:17 (Ref:1741634)

only in my lawn mower cos i like the smell!! from my experience most 60s/70s engines like 20-50 and die when used with stuff like mobil1. lots of people use valvoline 20-50,but we used a 20-50 called qualube special f from witham oil at lincoln and never had a problem in essex v6 engines.

MGDavid · 19 Oct 2006, 01:05 (Ref:1741731)

I run a 1380 Midget on Mobil 1 full synth (various grades, I buy it in France, more choice and cheaper). Built by MED, it's in its 3rd year with 1 head job, does not leak any and doesn't use much either.

Notso Swift · 19 Oct 2006, 06:17 (Ref:1741797)

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGDavid

I run a 1380 Midget on Mobil 1 full synth (various grades, I buy it in France, more choice and cheaper). Built by MED, it's in its 3rd year with 1 head job, does not leak any and doesn't use much either.

Wow that is a miracle for an A-series, I reckon every one of my 10 or so leaked at least a bit.

Personally I always work on the basis that the motor was designed for "X" weight oil so I use basically the same, this is not to say I don't use modern oils, but I keep the weight about the same, especially the hot weight. Otherwise, if you are using a thin oil you need to go through the whole motor and close of the clearances, bearings, oil pumps, tappets...

terence · 19 Oct 2006, 07:22 (Ref:1741836)

I Wont use anything but Motul, the Breakdown point far out performs any other Oil I,ve seen tested.Castrol "R" is agood oil ,but there are many issues concerning its use.

Al Weyman · 19 Oct 2006, 07:33 (Ref:1741844)

Old engine, old oil technology, no? I always use a 20/50 grade in my 1950's designed Chevy V8's as recommended by the factory. A nice 20/50 Uniroyal green is good and cheap and was recommended to me by by a top Rover SDI racer who really looks into things and if you have ever seen an SDI engine running on Mobil 1 synthetic at 15 psi it aint nice, but may no longer be available so I just bought some 20/50 in Halfords designed for older engines which looks OK. A mate ran Mobil 1 in his Chevy and was a bit concerned with the very low oil pressure which was probably OK but not very reassuring he changed to 20/50 on the advice of the engine builder, another good one for old engines is Valvoline 20/50 Racing but I bet the same as any other 20/50 from the company but then I am a sceptic.

As Terence said I would be wary of 'R' as it coats the metal parts with with what looks like a resin build up for want of a better word and I used to use it in a motorcycle cause I liked the smell but in the end resorted to a couple of drops in the fuel tank for the same effect! :-)

JamesH · 19 Oct 2006, 07:50 (Ref:1741857)

Valvoline Vr 20-50 for my 1300 Crossflow. Asked a lot of questions of the Locost fraternity, and I think this came out top on average. Some use Mobil One without problems, but I am sceptical (rightly or wrongly) that its a bit thin and could leak out of a low tolerance older style engine. I also got some very cheap 20-50 from Wilco's at about 3.99 for 5litres which I used for a short while until my VR1 turned up (got it posted - much cheaper than buying locally by about £5/container!!). Vr1 did appear to perform better - engine seemed cooler.

One issue I certainly had with 4 stroke pro-kart engines (Honda GX160) was when moving from synthetic to 'normal' oil, the bores tended to glaze unless you really flush all the old synthetic out.

James

JamesH · 19 Oct 2006, 07:52 (Ref:1741861)

Quote:

Originally Posted by terence bower

I Wont use anything but Motul, the Breakdown point far out performs any other Oil I,ve seen tested.Castrol "R" is agood oil ,but there are many issues concerning its use.

Off topic, but hey Terrance, you live just down the road from me! What do you race???

James
Locost#54, one time inhabitee of Ely pubs!

zefarelly · 19 Oct 2006, 11:59 (Ref:1742032)

I've tried Valvoline Vr 20-50 in my last race, seems fine and has been recommended by a few people, Gordon Streeter was one, he uses it in his anglia, although the last 2 years I've run 76 oil a 20/50 and its been spot on ( I change it every race )

the engines done 12 hours racing now with no problems, Its due a refresh this winter so it'll be interesting to see what it looks like inside

phoenix · 19 Oct 2006, 13:59 (Ref:1742136)

I always ran Valvoline Racing 20/50 in my Ford Kent engines. In more modern engines I have used lighter grades.

In our turbo engine we run Motul - because it smells nice!

tzei · 19 Oct 2006, 15:59 (Ref:1742209)

In my n/a engine i use also valvoline vr1 20w-50 and in turbo kendall gt-1 20w-50 or pennzoil racing 25w-50.

hometune · 20 Oct 2006, 07:18 (Ref:1742760)

More important than what you use is that you always change it before it has chance to break down. I always do this after around 10 hours running.

AndyV · 20 Oct 2006, 10:05 (Ref:1742976)

I use Valvoline 20/50 in my 1969 Triumph and and happy with the performance and tend to change it half way through a season. In the past I have used Redline fully synthetic 20/50 and found that to be extemely good not needing changing even at the end of a season (though I did). It was only the price of £30+ for a US Gallon (3.78 litres) of Redline that I changed to Valvoline.

For both oils the end of season engine inspection revealed internals in good condition.

Andy

zefarelly · 20 Oct 2006, 12:10 (Ref:1743093)

£25 (oil and filter) vs £5k or more (new engine) means every race meeting (2 hours) and an oil change,

maybe it me being paranoid ??? but it seems like a very small price to pay, and I run a magnet through the oil and inspect carefully every time I change it

Al Weyman · 20 Oct 2006, 12:34 (Ref:1743116)

What about the non magnetic particles! I personally think changing each race is over the top but there you go, if the stuffs alright for 5000 road miles why is it not for 40 race miles. have you tried running an inline aircraft screen filter as well as the standard one, may give you a better indication and won't cost a filter every time.

**Tim Falce** · 20 Oct 2006, 13:57 (Ref:1743171)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al Weyman

What about the non magnetic particles! I personally think changing each race is over the top but there you go, if the stuffs alright for 5000 road miles why is it not for 40 race miles.

I use an aluminium magnet when screening my oil as I have an ally head fitted.
Isn't 40 race miles about one race and practice in most cases? I normally change my oil when it starts getting black or when the engine breaks, which ever occurs first

BTW I use Valvoline 20/50 cos it's normally FOC.

**dtype38** · 20 Oct 2006, 16:06 (Ref:1743271)

Quote:

Originally Posted by hometune

More important than what you use is that you always change it before it has chance to break down.

When you run an old Jaguar the challenge is just to keep it in the engine before it has a chance to break down!

I'm with Al though... use a modern version of the oil the engine was originally designed to run on. I use Valvoline Racing 20W50 because it hs the same viscosity and, just as importantly, the same heat transfer properties that the engine was designed to expect. Being a mineral oil its also reasonably prices

Oh and Falcy... you never mentioned to me that you get it FOC

Am interested in your "aluminium magnet" though. Do you keep that with your left handed hammers and striped paint?

graham bahr · 22 Oct 2006, 17:10 (Ref:1745125)

in my bmw 2002 before i went turbo i ran duckhams Q 20/50 and despite using 8,200rpm as shift point never had a problem with it, dirt cheap too

zefarelly · 24 Oct 2006, 10:14 (Ref:1747320)

a race and practice for me is around 90-110 miles.

My aluminium magnet is broken, its hanging in the workshop on a sky hook

additional inline filters might be worthwhile, but could inhibit flow ? ? ?

regardless of whether oils in good condition, changing it, or given abject poverty at least draining and refilling after every race is a cheap/free way of seeing if anythings going astray, I can't see an argument for not doing it personally, although it seems I'm one of few posting who do 1 hour races

terence · 24 Oct 2006, 12:06 (Ref:1747454)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesH

Off topic, but hey Terrance, you live just down the road from me! What do you race???

James
Locost#54, one time inhabitee of Ely pubs!

A64 FIA MGB, is my own car, but its not the only car I race

terence · 24 Oct 2006, 12:12 (Ref:1747465)

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefarelly

a race and practice for me is around 90-110 miles.

My aluminium magnet is broken, its hanging in the workshop on a sky hook

additional inline filters might be worthwhile, but could inhibit flow ? ? ?

regardless of whether oils in good condition, changing it, or given abject poverty at least draining and refilling after every race is a cheap/free way of seeing if anythings going astray, I can't see an argument for not doing it personally, although it seems I'm one of few posting who do 1 hour races

Agree entirly Zef, the problem is ,when do you know the oil is no longer doing what its supposed to do? You usally see it in your rear view mirror! Your not alone in longer distance races though .

terence · 24 Oct 2006, 12:23 (Ref:1747484)

Just a thought, anyone trying to "run in" anew engine on synthetic oil,give up now!. Acustomer of mine wandered why the bores looked so good after 1200 road miles and why his oil consumption was so high in a new engine!,Drain sump, fill with Halfords 20/50, 200 miles latter,hey-presto!!

zefarelly · 24 Oct 2006, 15:39 (Ref:1747731)

I used a straight mineral oil to bed my engine in . . .whatever cheap crap they use in VW beetles apparently works well

2 years racing and it still works and doesn't leak a drop

I've now bottled it and am rebuilding ( just started on a new cylinder head this week actually, and we're looking at new cam profiles too )

ian.stewart · 24 Oct 2006, 21:46 (Ref:1748195)

I use Lucas 20/50w fully Synthetic in my RV8, regularly sees 7k and the shells look like new after 2 years of hard road use and more than a few trips up the strip, and as I bought 5 gals of the stuff it worked out about £16.50 a gallon

Ian

terence · 25 Oct 2006, 07:16 (Ref:1748491)

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefarelly

I used a straight mineral oil to bed my engine in . . .whatever cheap crap they use in VW beetles apparently works well

2 years racing and it still works and doesn't leak a drop

I've now bottled it and am rebuilding ( just started on a new cylinder head this week actually, and we're looking at new cam profiles too )

Hope thats not 70,grands worth as in Alfa GTA!

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