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Old 2 Apr 2009, 20:50 (Ref:2431822)   #26
R59
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R59 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the gridR59 should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
I could point you at a car that has been very reliable, runs an English axle which is slightly "out of tolerance" (ie: neg/toe-in), and has won a certain championship a number of times, without breaking. And it's got a lot more horsepower & torque than your Cortina.....

You worry too much!!!
If its done properly, all you'll know is that it's ever soooo much better.
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Old 22 Apr 2009, 07:25 (Ref:2446791)   #27
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I don't know how to explain it fully (or indeed if it will be useful!), but V8Supercar axles have the splines "barrelled" to account for the camber.
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Old 22 Apr 2009, 07:32 (Ref:2446794)   #28
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zefarelly has a real shot at the podium!zefarelly has a real shot at the podium!zefarelly has a real shot at the podium!zefarelly has a real shot at the podium!
I didn't think thay ran solid axles . . .the FOrd Falcon model I bought my son at Bathurst museum isn't!

I can understand the 'barrel' method though, it would allow a modicum of alignment, but must, if done incorrectly, considerably reduce the contact patch of the splines?
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Old 22 Apr 2009, 12:30 (Ref:2446959)   #29
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Al Weyman has a real shot at the podium!Al Weyman has a real shot at the podium!Al Weyman has a real shot at the podium!Al Weyman has a real shot at the podium!
I am sure I read somewhere they do have solid axles Zef in the same way as NASCAR does.
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Old 23 Apr 2009, 06:57 (Ref:2447571)   #30
Notso Swift
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Notso Swift should be qualifying in the top 10 on the grid
Yeah, the do, generally the Road cars are not (there are exceptions, like the Utes)
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Old 23 Apr 2009, 08:12 (Ref:2447609)   #31
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Originally Posted by R59 View Post
I could point you at a car that has been very reliable, runs an English axle which is slightly "out of tolerance" (ie: neg/toe-in), and has won a certain championship a number of times, without breaking. And it's got a lot more horsepower & torque than your Cortina.....

You worry too much!!!
If its done properly, all you'll know is that it's ever soooo much better.
As I think I said at start of thread, I ran a bent english axle for two seasons without diff or bearing problems. Had about 7mm off true at one end, and 5 at the other, so not a huge difference, but it was toeing out, so handling was badly affected (that's my excuse for crap driving)
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Old 24 Apr 2009, 23:44 (Ref:2448954)   #32
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alittle offtopic but instead of making a new topic I will ask here

I want to build the mumford linkage, but what do you use for the center pivot? a bushing? roller bearing? or any better idea's?

how big uniballs do I need for the rest? is 10mm big/strong enough? or should I go for 12mm?
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Old 24 Apr 2009, 23:55 (Ref:2448960)   #33
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Originally Posted by david- View Post
alittle offtopic but instead of making a new topic I will ask here

I want to build the mumford linkage, but what do you use for the center pivot? a bushing? roller bearing? or any better idea's?

how big uniballs do I need for the rest? is 10mm big/strong enough? or should I go for 12mm?
Needle roller bearing. We keep trying the normal bearing and contact bearing and the keep breaking. Didn't have a problem with the needle roller type.
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Old 25 Apr 2009, 00:17 (Ref:2448969)   #34
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Originally Posted by Denis Bassom View Post
Needle roller bearing. We keep trying the normal bearing and contact bearing and the keep breaking. Didn't have a problem with the needle roller type.
what dimension do you use? and how do you mount it? do you use a tube with correct internal diameter and press fit? or?
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Old 25 Apr 2009, 00:39 (Ref:2448981)   #35
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what dimension do you use? and how do you mount it? do you use a tube with correct internal diameter and press fit? or?
On which bearing type?
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Old 25 Apr 2009, 00:54 (Ref:2448987)   #36
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Originally Posted by Denis Bassom View Post
On which bearing type?
the needle roller bearing for chassis mounts
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Old 25 Apr 2009, 09:15 (Ref:2449086)   #37
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the needle roller bearing for chassis mounts
The needle roller bearing was about 32mm OD, 12mm deep and, with the supplied bush, about 10mm ID.

It was a light push fit and loctited into the bell crank. Then, because the bearing can just slide up and down the bush the whole lot was located with nylon spacers running.
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