Minature Touring cars - Page 7

Herminator · 18 Sep 2001, 23:23 (Ref:148129)

Hi, yes the sport 2 is good, a lot of people at ny vlub had it ar the earlier version so it came very recomended. It's certainly a lot cheaper than the newer cars but it has everything you need in terms of adjustability. A comon theme I got from shops was that it is a very sturdy car, standing up to more bumps and knocks than the other chassis. Lots of body shells you can choose from too. I rang a lot of shops looing for prices as they can vary a bit but you should be ableto get one for about £130 or less. Then you need all the electrics. Good luck, all my money at the mo is going on my PC, it is crying out for a new graphics card, currently a TNT2 M64 =(.

Hobson · 19 Sep 2001, 06:32 (Ref:148191)

The Sport 2 is a good stable car, very forgiving and easy to set up. And you can hop it up to a Pro 2 if you can afford it as all the part are interchangeable.
Plus, all the HPI 190mm bodies fit on it no problems.

I only problem I have is the price. If I bought it from my local hobby store, then I would have to pay £162, which is a bit steep for a sport class car. You could shop around and get it alot cheaper though.

Alternatives are the Schumacher SST '99Pro (£120), Tamiya TA04 (between £140- £260) or Yokomo MR4-TC Custom (£120).
Your choice.

**touringlegend** · 19 Sep 2001, 15:36 (Ref:148320)

Cheers guys, I was looking at Modelsport lastnight and they were £160 for a 'standard' Sport 2, or £180 for it with the hop-ups. I'll also have to add on the radio equipment, and the ESC, probably over £100.

Herminator · 19 Sep 2001, 17:20 (Ref:148362)

Them prices seem a bit high to me, I got mine for £130, if you have a magazine look in the back for Tay racers or some of the other larger shops, of the top of my head, Modelsport uk, Bagnals, Kev's racing bits are all good places with most having websites to check prices. Ringing them up can also help you get a discount if you order your electrics at the same time. So get that dailing finger on the go.

**touringlegend** · 21 Sep 2001, 23:11 (Ref:149339)

I have seen the Sport 2 for £110 on Tay racers.

Is that right - it's a bit cheap? I also noticed it's been a year since the pages were updated...

I was advised that 2400maH batteries were run inside, and have been looking at prices - but £35-£40 each????

Herminator · 21 Sep 2001, 23:51 (Ref:149349)

You don't need batteries that powerfull but I would atleast roccomend 2000's, and 2400's will help you keep up along the straights. Maybe get a couple 2000's and then one 2400 for the final where you can go for a good result. It's better get things that will be upto your standards when you improve, as I've found when people only overtake me on the straights due to good batteries alone.

Now I'd like to know what would be better for a slippery wooden floor, a high revving motor or a more torquey motor. As my attmepts to keep my current motor together have failed, it has been relegated to last ditch backup.

**touringlegend** · 22 Sep 2001, 00:31 (Ref:149367)

Yeah, I was thinking along those lines too Herminator - just have a good one for the final. When I visited the club I noticed what you are saying - most people can just pass others nae bother.

I would say a more torquay motor for slippery surfaces - high revving would just spin the wheels. Hobson should be able to give us the exact details of what to do...

Herminator · 22 Sep 2001, 01:03 (Ref:149380)

I was thinking torquet too, high revs are for long straights, but I wasn't sure if aallll that torque would be lost through wheel spinning. Right now I have a shopping list of a motor, a battery pack, tire inserts, maybe some more tyres and a body shell, =(, lots of money I don't have.

**touringlegend** · 22 Sep 2001, 01:28 (Ref:149387)

Well, I feel very lucky!! If you look back through this topic you'll see what I mean... (ps=money!)

**touringlegend** · 22 Sep 2001, 03:01 (Ref:149398)

http://cgi.tagmodels.force9.co.uk/ac...me_HPI_29.html

The price of the RS4 Sport is £130 there.

Suppose I better get some sleep now - it's 4 in the mornin!

Hobson · 22 Sep 2001, 16:25 (Ref:149506)

Ok, motors first.

I now use a Trinity Green Machine 27x1 stock, but it is rebuildable so you can replace armatures etc as they wears out. It is very torquey and only £24.99 for the basic one, or £29.99 for the Pro version, the difference being a Dyno print out for the Pro so you can see the spec of it.
If you want revs, then the Reedy MVP stock is an option. 27x1 rebuildable stock also, and it has great top speed. £26.99

For a slippery track, use a Torquey motor as the high revs will be uncontrollable.

Now batteries.
I have 2 2000's and 2 2400's. Team Orion are in my opinion the best matcher of cells and only use Sanyo cells which last ages.
My 2400's are sport packs but last around 8 mins with the 27x1 motor, and cost £30. My Orion V-Max 2000 cells cost me £29, but you have to assemble the pack yourself, meaning you have to get a Soldering Iron, Solder, Connectors and battery bars. Total cost is about £35 incuding a battery.

Does all this help you guys?

**touringlegend** · 22 Sep 2001, 17:38 (Ref:149515)

Yeah, that helps.

I finally managed to succeed in getting a magazine, which is RC Racer. There was batteries in their inside lines section, £23.99 for a 3000maH & £11.99 for a 2000maH. I think they fell off the back of a lorry....

I was also pleased to see that RC Racer thinks the Sport 2 is a good car.

Hobson · 23 Sep 2001, 10:39 (Ref:149725)

Racer, I think, is a good 'polished' magazine, but I usually get Radio Race Car International. RRCI has more detailed reviews, loads of technical info etc.
Which Racer mag do you have? Is it the one with the 'Stars & Stripes' Volvo? If so, then I have it also.

Those 2000's and 3000's are definately sport packs, they wouldn't last more than 5 and a half mins. With 3000maH cells, you need a different charger. The 2000, 2400, and 1700 or lower are all NiCads. 3000maH are NimH cells, and your Nicad charger won't charge them without setting the charger or battery on fire. The best thing to do is get an Nicad/NimH charger, for about £49.99.

**touringlegend** · 23 Sep 2001, 10:47 (Ref:149728)

Yeah, it's the one with the Volvo.
I got the feeling it was polished too Hobson, there wasn't any 'basic' info really, too may ads too!

I'm starting out afresh with the new motor when I get it(remember, I'm a rich bugger!), I'm keeping my Tamiya so I can wreck it!!! I have learnt with the Tamiya what not to do, so I'm only running this at the club, and possibly in a local car park, not in my crammed patio!

Herminator · 23 Sep 2001, 19:28 (Ref:149905)

I generaly get whatever magazines I see, there are very few shops that stock them, only the big John Menzies in Glasgow have them. I actualy found that they had an American magazine, now that was absolutely crammed with adverts, so many that it was hard to find the actual reviews. I've got round to ordering a new motor coz it isn't worth having a car that doesn't go, I went fo the green machine as suggested and the pro version coz it was only £1 more than the standard.
Watch were you run your new chassis, I was very sad to find mine scratched after running it outside my flat on a brick paved parking area, although these were mainly caused by going over a slight ramp and loosing some control, thus the car kept going straight under a wooden fence, where it firmly wedged itself, with the chassis bottomed out. =(.

**touringlegend** · 23 Sep 2001, 20:12 (Ref:149932)

Hey, if you think your cars scratched wait till you see my TL01!

I run it most the time on my Patio, and it is a lot of slabs, so there is a gap between each, and they go up and down like a yo-yo, hence the scratched bottom!

**touringlegend** · 23 Sep 2001, 20:46 (Ref:149961)

Now, I think this BMW M3 GTR is ABSOLOUTELY gorgeous! It's definetly on my shopping list!

http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/m3gt/m3-1.jpg
http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/m3gt/m3-6.jpg
http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/m3gt/m3-7.jpg
http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/new/m3gt/m3-8.jpg

I quite like the Black & Red & white one, purple looks ****!

or the M5
http://www.hpi-europe.com/graphics/bodies/med/7450.jpg

Herminator · 23 Sep 2001, 21:14 (Ref:149983)

I thought it was just a shame to mark my nice carbon chassis, all it normally gets is dusty un the school gym. Although I had a very strange result form running t indoors. When removing the wheels I found that the right rear wheel had a lot of hair rapped around the hex drive, none of the others had this at all. I have no idea as to the reason for this. The most debri I normally pick up is scraps of tape, from the fire hose and plastic ducting used to mark the track.
I'm looking for some setup tips, as the track is very slippy and there are a few hairpins to deal with, the back end can whip around all too easily. I know that softening the suspension normally increases grip but my club mates told me to harden the rear when it kept trying to eat it's own exhaust pipe and this worked. I like the car to e slightly tail happy as I've found going the shortest route aroun the hairpins can help me pass people, who try to take them properly, which seems to be unimportant with the track as it is. I'll post a pick of the track if I can, and hope it helps, very crude I know.

Herminator · 23 Sep 2001, 21:26 (Ref:149995)

Very profesional looking BMW and yes very nice, but whats wrong with purple? my favourite colour. The M5 looks dull though. The most interesting paint job I've seen was on the bottom of some ones X-Ray at my club, a tartan pattern, it belonged to a young kid but he was a very good driver and seemed he and his dad were heavily into racing. I have nissan silvia bodyshell, which is just metalic blue but with all he kit stickers on it looks pretty nice, even got told how neatly I had managed to do it. I'm planning on a chrysler 300M next, with a paint job I saw in australian touring cars, blue with orange panels on the front wings running back. Thats when I've grown out of my scuffing the barriers stage and my current body starts to look like a crash test car.

**touringlegend** · 23 Sep 2001, 23:13 (Ref:150047)

Quote:

Originally posted by Herminator
...I've seen was on the bottom of some ones X-Ray at my club, a tartan pattern, it belonged to a young kid but he was a very good driver and seemed he and his dad were heavily into racing.

I have the strange feeling I have seen the exact same one at my club!!

Hobson · 24 Sep 2001, 06:40 (Ref:150135)

You two have to stop staying up late at night! What will your parents say?

Don't you have school to go to?

I quite like the M5, if it painted black then it looks like a gangster car. Very cool.

BTW, can somebody check out this site? www.rcracer.com When I go to it, windows brings up a messege saying 'access denied'. Does this happen to you?

**touringlegend** · 24 Sep 2001, 08:25 (Ref:150159)

It's good being an insomniac!

It's a school holiday here in Scotland Hobson.

**touringlegend** · 24 Sep 2001, 08:28 (Ref:150161)

Forgot to add, RCracer.com is fine with me.

Herminator · 24 Sep 2001, 17:28 (Ref:150427)

School? I'm at Uni, so no parents to worry about either. During the long summer hloiday I have had I've become nocturnal. That website is fine for me, and staying up late means I don't have to worry about internet charges. So how old are you guys?
I like my cars to look like proper racing cars, none of all those flame or drip effects. Except for my RC airplane, black with flourecent pink drips running back, it was certainly helpful in seeing the orientation of the plane at long distances.

**touringlegend** · 24 Sep 2001, 19:50 (Ref:150537)

I'm 16 Herminator, I think Hobson is the same?

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