Sump design

[boyracer]

Hello all, have a friend designing his own sump for the latest racer and I was wondering if anyone out there could let me know what has and hans't worked for their project.
Also how do you determine at what height the windage tray is meant to sit in the sump. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

[gttouring]

well you don't design the sump to hpope it fits design it on the engine with the tray it varies per motor as the rod swing and crank are different (different strokes)
so the sump area can be increase but withour baffles and some sort of oil control, more capacity ian't really going to help, and the crank scraper can be put into the pan by welding it to the inside rightnear the top if you'd like, and the tray well, look it up on the internet their are so many guys that do this, (HighEnergy.com in australia, and CantonRacingProducts.com in the US) these have been the best I have seen
the trays usually ride in the pan aren't as good as the higher mounted trays, getting withing 10 millimeters of the crank or closer.

[Goran Malmberg]

Originally Posted by boyracer

Hello all, have a friend designing his own sump for the latest racer and I was wondering if anyone out there could let me know what has and hans't worked for their project.
Also how do you determine at what height the windage tray is meant to sit in the sump. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

I was reffering to a not too good images in the tread "extra horsepower" showing a vet sump design. So, I did put in a new drawing on my site showing my dry pan design.
http://hem.passagen.se/hemipanter/
klick "News" and scroll down a little. This is the system shown on a picture higher up on the site mounted on a 500 cui Ford motor with 90 degree header system.
Goran Malmberg

[zefarelly]

I think sumps and baffles vary for different engines, I killed an engine earlier this year through oil surge, subsequentkly I've redesigned my baffle methods and so far so good, I have a top plate with 25mm chamfered corners and a small cut out for the dip stick, a centrally mounted pick up pipe, which is in a tube through the middle of the top plate, this is 15mm off the sump floor, there is also baffle plates for and aft which mean any surging oil must pass under the pick up pipe . . . . . there may be a nbetter way of doing it but I'm not aware and I've not had a problem since on my engine

[tzei]

I've done some sort of a diamond-shape "walls" around the oil pik-up. each wall has plate that opens only toward pick-up,hinges (?) at the top of the plates. So during acceleration and/or cornering opposite directions doors are closed preventing oil from escaping from the pick-up and doors at the other side are opening letting more oil to come for the pick-up. Hope you'll get some idea from my exellent english

[boyracer]

Thanks for all the replies. Was more interested in the method behind the madness. Like how do you figure where the windage baffles should be ? and how much oil capacity did you end up with in the swing baffled section. Any thoughts on what is the best hinge to use ?

We've thought about making the bottom of the sump a bolt on piece so that if any engine goes you can clean it out. Many of the commercial versions or others that people have made are a real problem to clean if an engine carks it.

[zefarelly]

I carked an engine but managed to flush the sump ok, just got as much out as possible and literally hosed ot out !

The other thing I do is overfill by 10mm (probably an extra litre) whic helps as well (the sumps deep so it doesnt touch the crank, that I'm aware of!)

[tzei]

I use Fe-pans, and all evo'ing is made welding (MIG). Capasity of holding oil inside is tested so: I fill pan to the top with used motor oil and weld seams(?) . oil tends to boil a bit and smells like - you know- wonderfull This sealing up goes with expansion of oil capasity. On my case 4 L becomes 5L.
Walls inside are as high as crank allowes = about 60 to 80 mm in my pan(s). Hinges - so called a piano-hinge (aroud here anyway) works wery well, sold on meters. Its light and can be welded. Must put somesort "end plates" to the hinges that the iron wire cant come out, dropping door, door blockin oil pick-up... (been there, no fun). In the swing baffled section oil capasity is about 1 - 1.5 L , never measured though. Have tried to make all areas aroud this middle section as equal as possible in volume-vise. Neighbouring door must not allow to touch and seize with each other on any circumstance! I've used old oil to check this. Can be messy if you get carried away

Yes, well... onto cleaning side. After this type major overhaul i have first used gasoline to wash old oil and any debris of. Takes 2 - 5 times. Last I wash it with plain water, fist hot and then cold. Must dry fast if rust isn't wated. Haven't had engine failure cause of poor washing (been washing so long that i've been happy with the result). haven't had flashing oil warnig light either.
HTH